The Place

Metamorfosi – The Village

Metamorfosi is a small village located in Messinia, about 40 minutes from Kalamata, on the way to Pylos. The village is currently home to around 320 permanent residents, most of whom are involved in various agricultural activities, including winemaking, raisin production, Extra Virgin Olive Oil production and vegetable growing. The region is famous for its distinctive tomatoes, which grow quite large, come in multiple colours and have a flavour unlike any other.

A picture of a Chontrokatsari tomato, being held in a person's hand. The tomato curls into itself, and has a bit of a green color. The name literally means "fat-curly" in Greek, used to indicate its unique shape.
A Chontrokatsari tomato. Taste like no other.

The History

The village has a surprisingly long history, dating back to the time of King Nestor, around 1300 BC, when it is believed to have been an important centre. Various artefacts from that period have been discovered and are now exhibited in the nearby Archaeological Museum of Chora. At the Palace of Nestor, storerooms and jars used for storing olive oil have been found, providing evidence of the region’s long history of olive oil production.

The image shows the Museum of Chora. Stairs lay at the entrance of the museum, with two palm trees on either side reaching 5 meters if not longer. After the stairs, there is a short of balcony with column right up front, trying to emulate the architectural pattern of the Mycenaean era.
The Museum of Chora. Image source.

The village appears to have held considerable significance, as cobblestone roads dating back to the Byzantine Empire were discovered nearby. Unfortunately, these roads no longer exist, having been demolished by local authorities to make way for agricultural roads.

The village was previously known as “Skarmiga”, a name that dates back to the Venetian occupation. It appears to derive from a Byzantine-era word, “Skaramangion“, used to describe a luxurious fabric with intricate decorations. This has led researchers to speculate that the village may have been involved in the production and processing of silk.

The Church

About five minutes from the village stands the Church of the Transfiguration of the Savior, although a more literal translation would be “Transformation of the Savior”. This is the church that gave the village its current name. The church itself dates back to the 11th century, during the Byzantine Empire. Its roof collapsed a few years ago but was subsequently rebuilt.

Local rumors suggest that the space beneath the church’s floor once contained items of archaeological significance. The more extravagant versions of these rumors claim that the perpetrators were searching for gold coins supposedly hidden there during World War II. These beliefs were fueled by a previous break-in at the church, with evidence suggesting that its floor had been dug up. The rumors have also been reinforced by local testimonies and documented cases of antiquities trafficking in the region.

Next to the church, there is a natural spring. According to testimonies from locals still alive today, the spring once served as the village’s only source of drinking water, while residents also used it to wash their clothes by hand. Visitors can still see the ruins of Turkish baths next to the church.

An 11th century church, being constructed during the age of the Byzantine Empire. The church, sits in the center and the leaves of a tall tree can be seen on the left top side of the picture. In front of a church, a spring with concrete around it can be seen, with the concrete being painted white. In the far right, behind the church, the remains of Turkish baths can be seen from the era of the Ottoman Occupation of Greece.
The Church of The Transfiguration/Transformation of the Savior. The Turkish bath ruins seen in the back, and the spring in the front.